This map and the others on this site are a start but if you really want to learn more about the geography of French wine, you will need a more detailed guide. A good starting point is the 2007 Michelin Green Guide Wine Regions of France. Amazon has a very detailed description of the 2005 version that is worth reading.

Updated: November 25, 2009

Spotlight on Sherry

A fortified wine (distilled alcohol is added before aging), sherry is actually several wines. Fino, Oloroso, Manzanilla, and — the drink made famous by Edgar Allan Poe — Amontillado, are among the varieties all called sherry.

The Fino and Manzanilla are younger and crisper, more acidic. The Olorosos and Amontillados are longer in the barrel, growing more mellow as they age.

Often drunk as dessert wines, especially by the British for whom sherry became something of a national drink, they go well with many other kinds of foods.

The British have more to thank Spain for than sherry, though. Not only did Henry VIII’s first wife come from the region, so did the well-regarded Carignan.

Superior Red and White Wines

As you would expect, reds are prominent in this land of ample sunshine and red soil. The Aragonese don’t disappoint, producing many full-bodied wines, full of color and aroma. The Grenache, of course, is considered a regional treasure by vintners in this area.

Perhaps the largest wine region in the world…

Castilla, having it’s own literary heritage, produces wine equally deserving of fame. To many, the entire region is considered one enormous vineyard. La Mancha, evoking memories of Don Quixote, is one reason for the reputation. It’s reputed to be the largest wine region in the world, though there are many Frenchmen who would, of course, argue.

Just to show how iconoclastic they truly are, from this powerhouse of wine making comes a white named Airen. Crisp and delightful, it ensures that no Spanish knight will need to slay doubters.

Reds are well represented, though, by the Tempranillo often blended with French varieties, such as Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon. Even Syrahs are beginning to be seen here.

North of Madrid are to be found the whites of Rueda. Delicate and light, they’re made from a local variety called Verdejo. Sauvignon Blanc, too, is making an appearance.

But traditions in Spain change slowly and red is still dominant. Robust and heavy, the Ribera has seen a renaissance in the the last few decades. The Tinto Fino, a kind of Tempranillo makes a complex red that ages well.

Mencia has its own tradition of red, based on the Cabernet Franc. Secluded near Castilla y Leon, the wines are intense. Lighter roses are a staple of the region, too, though. A specialty white, made from Godello, is produced here as well.

Catalonia, with coasts on the Mediterranean, has been making wine since the first Greeks arrived here. It continues those ancient traditions with vinos rancios that are only for the most hardy. But, for those who prefer something lighter, Catalonia is happy to provide a white from the Penedes.

It will also cheerfully serve a sparkling wine from Cava. The latter is actually a kind of Spanish champagne, but much more full-bodied than the French version, as befits the area.

But to get the most distinctive feel, the best bet is to try one of the reds of Tarragona. Full-bodied, from Cariñena and Garnacha grown in slate-enriched earth, it forms the pinnacle of wine from Catalonia.

Last, but far from least, Galicia continues to make wines as it has since Roman times — though in recent times the whites have come to the fore. Here Celtic traditions mix with Roman to produce wines that combine with seafood like no others in the world.

The moist climate and lower amount of sunshine produce wines high in acid and delightfully crisp. Most are made from varieties found only here.

Like so much about Spain, the country is filled deep with traditions but reaching into the 21st century to produce wines that can compete with any from around the world.

In the far west, nestled among the rugged Gibellina Mountains is their masterpiece: the Mazara Valley. Larger than Piedmont or Tuscany, the grapes here that ripen under the hot sun are often used to fortify the weaker wines made in northern Italy.

The heart of the region lies between Salemi and Marsala, the latter giving its name to the traditional hearty wine originating there. There, thanks to warm temperatures, hilly terrain, sea breezes and rich soil, conditions combine to rival the best found in California.

Gifted with such terroir, the country produces more wine per year than Australia and New Zealand combined. Merlot, Chardonnay and Sangiovese are grown, of course. But there are also indigenous varieties such as Insolia and Catarratto.

Famed for the dessert wine Marsala…

Of course, a major portion of that output is the dessert wine Marsala, actually originated by English merchant traders two centuries ago. In the past, scorned for its association with cooking wines, there are connoisseurs now that favor its complex flavors in the form of Marsala Vergine and Superiore Riserva. In some years, Sicily provided fully a third of Italy’s total production of this sweet nectar.

But far from one-trick magicians, the artisans in one of the world’s oldest wine making regions also produce delicious whites made from a blend of Insolia, Damaschino and Chardonnay. And the reds, once scorned as overbearing, now count among their number such delights as Nero d’Avola. Sometimes compared to Syrah, they age well and sell for as much as sixty dollars a bottle in the finest restaurants in New York and London.

Such works of art come from techniques developed over centuries. The sophisticated vintners may prune the vines by as much as 35% to concentrate the flavor, then harvest the fruit at night to avoid the scorching Sicilian autumn sun. The grapes are then stored in cooled vats to avoid premature fermentation. From this is produced the high-reputation vino da taglio grape must.

Grapes run the gamut of Carricante to Chardonnay, Grillo to Malvasia. One can also find the Italian version of the Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, but also the traditional Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Among the reds, the mainstay Cabernet Sauvignon is grown everywhere, but Gamay and Negrello Cappuccio — from the foothills of the Etna volcano — form part of an enormous variety of vines.

Only 15% of this huge output, though, is bottled on the island, with only 2% controlled under the Italian Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) appellation system.

The majority of the vineyards reside on the island’s west side in the Trapani province, where more than 70% of Sicily’s wine is made. Surprisingly, the largest portion of this output is white wine not red. Among these is the Alcamo, enjoying a renewed rise in quality.

Bordered by the French and Swiss Alps, Piedmont is far from the Mediterranean that produces such fine wines. Yet, here the hot summer climate encourages Nebbiolo, a late ripener that ages wonderfully, producing wine high in tannin, with perfect acidity and aromas of rose, mint and licorice. Spicy fruit flavors of cherries with hints of violets show the reason Italy vies with France for the top wine producer in Europe.

The Piedmont region divides into two major areas, Alba in the southwest, home to Barbera, Barbaresco and Dolcetto, and Asti to the southeast.

Piedmont is also home to the traditional Barolo, where skins are soaked for twenty days both during and after fermentation. This helps highlight tannins in the wine that lending it an austere quality in its youth, but also able to evolve over time.

Aging, usually for a minimum of four years, is carried out in traditional old oak barrels, allowing the acidity and tannin to show through more aggressively. The robust red Barolo improves with aging, in a technique that goes back centuries. Nearby Barbera has a beautiful deep color and acidity, but is lighter in tannins.

Barbera should not be confused with the Barbaresco, similar to Barolo only 10 miles distant. The latter are made with 100 percent Nebbiolo and have a slightly lower alcohol content and require less aging.

Piedmont stands first in quality…

But youth has come to the area in another way too. Newer wine making techniques use new oak barrels used to add a hint of vanilla to counter-balance a natural tendency toward tannin and acidity.

Dolcetto, the other major wine of the Alba region has less acid than Barbera, but more tannins and a bit more spice.

Asti, by contrast to these reds, produces excellent, light sparkling whites made from the Moscato, rich in floral and peach aromas. Ironically, the wine named Moscati d’Asti is a non-sparkling version.

All these wines have been perfected over a period of three thousand years, centuries longer than the oldest French wines. Considering Italy’s small size, at three-quarters the area of California, its production of 8 billion bottles per year is even more astounding. Though only seventh in production, Piedmont stands first in quality.

Much of the great red of Piedmont forms an upper price barrier for many, with bottles going for $60 or more. But there are still good Piedmont products to be found for less.